From Here to There

April 16-23, 2016. Ah, yes. Venice! A city surrounded by (and surrounding) nothing but water. So much grand beauty and such an expansive history crammed into one small-sized city!

First off, let me reinforce what every guide book will tell you: Venice is entirely walkable. I found myself walking for only a few minutes to get to destinations that looked much further away on the map I was using. The canals are also easy to manage via the city-run waterbus (“vaporetto”) system, or the much more expensive water taxis (which are definitely an option if you want to look like George Clooney, and you have a simarly-sized bank account). Gondolas, I’ve been told, are strictly for honeymooners and tourists, and are also priced accordingly (they ARE, however, one of the first images that come to mind when I think about Venice).   I stuck with the water buses and walking. It felt like a much more authentic experience anyway.

I stayed with my friend Kris in a charming third floor apartment that she had rented for the last part of April. We had plenty of space, and a full kitchen, which at least made breakfast and storing/re-heating leftovers easier. (We were told by a local waitress that asking for a “doggy bag” was no longer considered “in bad taste” in Venice – ever since our First Lady did so a few years back. Many thanks to Michelle for shutting down THAT pretentious social rule!)

Cathedrals, churches, palaces – the architecture in Venice is nothing short of grandiose everywhere you look. Despite the damp climate, most buildings have been either meticulously maintained or beautifully restored. Generally they all looked to be in prety good condition – considering many are well over 400 years old. That, in itself, is a sobering fact when you come from a country where hardly anything is more than 200 years old.

We took the waterbuses to the outlying islands of Murano (known for their glasswork) and Burano (known for their colorful buildings and lacework). Both are charming little towns with plenty of shopping opportunities.

I was also able to tour St. Marks Catheral, the Doge’s Palace (a “must see” in my opinion), The glass museum on Burano, the Accadamia Gallery, the old Jewish Ghetto (the first ghetto in the world, now 500 years old), and the Churches of San Stae, San Giacomo, San Aponal, Santa Maria della Salute, Santa Maria e San Donato, and San Giorgio Maggiore. The artwork and in each was magnificent!

I wandered through many “alleys” and little “campos” (neighborhood plazas) and admired their flowery balconies, magnificent doorways and the general sense of community as neighbors and friends greeted each other as they went along their way. I could now understand why Kris had fallen in love with this city during her first visit here last year.

While at the Doges palace I walked across the Bridge of Sighs. It felt a little eerie – maybe because the ceiling was a little lower than usual and it seemed to sway just a bit (although it’s made of stone and firmly connected at either end), or maybe it’s because I was walking among the spirits of those lost souls who walked across that same bridge hundreds of years ago on their way to prison, torture or execution. On the other hand it was fun to look out the little windows at the hundreds of other tourists taking pictures of the bridge I was standing on, even though I dont think they could see me waving.

The food in Venice really varied in quality, so when Kris and I stumbled on a little wine bar on our way back from a long day of walking, we were delighted to find excellent food at reasonable prices, a great wine selection, an inviting, cozy atmosphere, and friendly, helpful staff. We decided right away to return for later meals, which we did 4-5 times.  We were greeted warmly each time by then-familiar wait staff and the owner. If anyone wants a great place to eat in Venice, try all’Amarone – it’s only about 50 meters from the San Silvestro vaporetto stop, and you’ll absolutely love it! (We later learned it’s rated #36 on Trip Advisor out of 1,200+ restaurants in Venice.  A well-deserved honor!)

One final bit of advice for anyone considering a trip to Venice. Kris and I both agree that the best deal in town is the view from the bell tower at San Giorgio Maggiori. It only cost 6 euros to ride up in the elevator, there are no lines or crowds (at least for now) and the 360-degree views of Venice and the surrounding islands are spectacular. Bring your camera – but let’s keep this little gem a secret, okay?

Next stop: Florence!